Glass block installing

Otherwise, the fumes could be dangerous to our health. This will end up costing you more on your energy bills each month. Glass block windows are heavy and the process used to create them is expensive, so they can be a costly addition to your home when compared with the standard alternatives.

If you live in an area where the summers are very hot, such as the Midwest, you may wish to reconsider putting glass block windows in your home.

Glass blocks absorb and transfer the heat very well, turning your room into a greenhouse. Many homeowners have complained about their bathrooms developing a stifling heat during the day after installing glass block windows, even when the air conditioner is running. So, should glass block windows remain in the past? Some designers think that they can be used to great effect in modern designs and improve the look and value of a home and we disagree. If you are considering working with this material, you may want to second guess that.

Other window styles and accessories offer the same features as glass block windows without the outdated look. If you do have glass block windows and want to replace them with something better and beautiful, look no further than Feldco for the best replacement windows in the Midwest. Get started today with a free quote online and see why so many homeowners trust us. Over , homeowners have trusted Feldco with their windows, siding and doors.

Skip to content Why You Should Avoid Glass Block Windows Glass block windows may have been a staple in older buildings with outdated style , but some modern builders are giving them a little comeback in newer homes. What Are Glass Block Windows? Are Glass Block Windows Attractive? This will allow you to level this bed without the level sticking to it. If you start with a firm, level bed, you will seldom have to make any adjustments as you go up.

Using your level, create a flat bed roughly 4 inches deep, to accommodate the depth of the block. Taking your time at this step will save you time and aggravation the rest of the project! Spreading mortar on the edge of the glass block is affectionately known as " buttering the block". This leaves enough mortar to adhere to the next block. Most importantly, butter the bottom of the block flush to the outside lips. It is very important that this mortar remains flat, as this will bond to the bed joint and insures that the first course is as level as the bed joint.

If your butter is lumpy on the bottom, you will have to work harder to level this course. Work smarter, not harder! This is the only course that will require butter on the bottom of the block. Throughout the rest of the window you will only butter the sides, except for the last course, which will be buttered on top as well. While a four foot level is used to keep the block level, keep a six foot level on hand to keep the block flush to the outside of the opening.

This eliminates the need to worry about whether or not the glass block is tipping in or out. Simply hold the long level so it bridges the opening, then tap the glass block to the level. Do this at the top and the bottom of the glass block, to make sure that you are plumb with the wall. Conversely, a sloppy grout job can ruin a great window. Once you have snapped off all of the spacers, take a minute and sponge down the whole window.

Doing a preliminary cleaning at this stage makes your final cleanup much easier. Installation kits come with spacers to place between the blocks. Take a corner spacer and press it into the mortar at the corner. Make sure it touches the floor and wall directly, rather than floating on the mortar. Press the first block into the corner. Start by rubbing a thin layer of mortar on the side and bottom edges of the block that will contact the mortar. Then press it down into the corner so it rests on top of the spacer.

Place 2 spacers 8 inches 20 cm apart from the first block. These spacers go in between each block and remain there permanently encased in the mortar. Take the first one and press it into the corner of the first block. Then lay a second one 8 inches 20 cm away. If the spacers still show after you press the blocks together, touch up the area with a bit more mortar to cover them.

Alternatively, you could seal the mortar with caulk when it's cured. This will cover any spacers or other imperfections. Spread mortar between the 2 spacers. Then spread mortar onto the side of the first block. Press the second block into position. Spread mortar on the side and bottom edges of the block.

Then press it down between the 2 spacers. Push it against the first block so the mortar binds them together. Maintain that separation between all the blocks in this job. If you're using glue or caulk to bond the blocks instead of mortar, then place a plastic strip between each block with glue on each side.

These strips should come with an installation kit that uses glue. Continue working down the line until you complete the first row. Follow the same procedure to lay each block. Work until the first layer of blocks is complete. Attach a reinforcing strip across the top of the blocks. Once the first row is complete, reinforce the blocks before starting the second row.

Installation kits come with reinforcing strips that go in between rows. Take the strip and screw it to the wall on one side. Then stretch it across the blocks, making sure it touches each one. Then screw it to the wall on the opposite side. Cut them to the length of the wall plus 6 inches 15 cm on each side to allow room for the screws. Follow the directions provided for the correct reinforcement method.

Build row-by-row until you complete the installation. Repeat the same process for each row. Place spacers down, spread the mortar, and press each block down. When you complete a row, reinforce it with a reinforcing strip. Method 3. Let the mortar set for hours before washing the blocks. Even though you scraped away excess mortar, there is almost certainly some leftover on the blocks. The washing process removes all of these imperfections, but not until the mortar has set. Give it hours before you start washing.

This job may take several hours, meaning that the first blocks you laid are dry enough for cleaning as soon as you complete installing the blocks.

Scrub the blocks with a wet sponge. Dip a sponge in a bucket of plain, warm water and scrub any spots on the blocks that have mortar on them.

Thin layers of mortar should come off easily with water and light scrubbing. Only use plain water at this point. The mortar is not dry enough to handle cleaning from solvents or other chemicals. Run a dry cloth over the blocks after cleaning them.

This wipes up any moisture and removes any remaining mortar remnants. Work in a circular motion and cover both sides of the block surface. Let the mortar cure for days. Once the job is complete, leave the mortar to dry. Don't do any additional cleaning or maintenance until the mortar has fully cured. Avoid doing any construction near the blocks, or the vibrations could knock them out of place.

Different mortar may have different set times. Always check the instructions on the product you use for the specific dry time. Maintain your glass blocks by cleaning them once a week.

After the mortar dries completely, start cleaning the glass blocks once a week. Make a solution of warm water and mild soap. Dip a fine cloth or sponge into the water and scrub the blocks in a circular motion. Then use a squeegee to wipe the water off. Did you know you can get answers researched by wikiHow Staff? Unlock staff-researched answers by supporting wikiHow.