Make sure the five screws are evenly spaced along the strapping or joist. Do not screw too close to the edge of the drywall. A drywall gun will make it a lot easier to screw down the drywall. Drive the screw heads down past the top of the drywall, but not so deep that they break through the surface. Continue gluing, hoisting, and screwing drywall in this manner until one row of the ceiling has been completely covered.
Start the next row at the edge of the wall, next to the previous row, but make sure the end joints of the drywall offset the first row by at least 4 feet 1.
Part 4. Mark the location of all studs using a stud finder. Don't trust that your studs will all be on 16" or 24" centers, as they are supposed to be. A good idea is to run masking tape along the floor while you have the studs exposed and mark the center line of each stud with a high visibility marker.
Measure the wall against a piece of drywall to determine whether its end piece will fit in the center of a stud. Again, it's likely that you will have to cut some pieces of drywall in order to center the end pieces onto a stud. When cutting drywall, use a T-square and razor knife to score a line on one side of the drywall paper. Place your knee on the opposite side of the cut and quickly pull the drywall piece towards you while at the same time pushing your knee outward, snapping the drywall in a clean line.
Clean up the remaining paper along the newly formed crease with your razor. With help, hoist the drywall on the wall, and using the drill, install five screws in the stud at the center of the drywall panel. Start in the center and work outwards. Drive in five screws for each stud. Extra screws may help in some situations, but are usually overkill; they will require extra mudding and sanding that may detract from the overall finish.
Consider using a spring-loaded drywall screw dimpler. They are designed to automatically countersink each drywall screw to precisely the same depth before ratcheting the screw bit, as a sign to quit and back off the drill.
Use a drywall saw to make cuts along irregular openings such as arches. Continue installing drywall over window and door openings. You'll be able to trim off excess drywall later. At the same time, be mindful that no seams line up with a door or window corner, and do not fasten panels to framing around openings yet. A good practice when installing drywall over protruding pipes is to place the drywall against the pipe and lightly tap with a flat block of wood to dimple the back.
Next, pull the drywall away and use a drywall circle cutter or drywall hole saw to cut a perfect hole along the dimple. This should be much easier to finish than if you punch out a large hole that requires coats of mud to finish. Start the next row at the edge of the wall, next to the previous row. Cut out any drywall that has been hung over window or door frames. Fasten the drywall down around the window or door, and then cut out the proper section using a rotary drill or drywall saw.
Part 5. Mix your initial coat of drywall compound, or mud, to the consistency of sour cream. Having the first coat of mud, which you'll apply directly over the seam, a bit runnier than normal will allow the tape to bond well with the mud.
Use a drywall knife to apply a liberal amount of mud to a seam. You don't have to worry about getting it perfect the first time through; you'll wipe off the excess after you apply the tape.
Make sure you cover the seam entirely. Put drywall tape over the entire joint you applied the mud to. Use your 6" or 8" drywall putty knife to flatten the tape, starting at one end and pulling towards you in one smooth motion.
You don't need to soak it down too much. Some contractors avoid the perforated and fiber tapes, as they don't produce a flawless finish and require gobs of extra mud and sanding to get the job done right. Do what works best for you and fits in your budget. Wipe off the mud around the tape with your drywall knife. Wipe off excess mud so the surface of the seam is smooth and flattened. Inspect your recently taped joint for air bubbles. Wet your blade and flatten then out with another swipe if needed.
For corner beads, consider using a corner tool that is available for both inside and outside corners. This will give your job a professional finish. Apply mud and tape in a similar manner. Apply liberal amount of compound.
If it isn't already, crease your tape perfectly in the center and reinforce the crease a couple of times. Apply the tape so that the center of the crease fits directly into the corner of the wall. Wipe away excess compound with your drywall knife. Apply at least two to three more coats using a slightly wider putty knife for each application. Let the mud dry between each coat.
It will bubble if you rush it! Many thin coats of mud will give you better results, but patience is required to let it dry.
Don't apply any mud over freshly taped joints. Allow them to thoroughly dry for one day between coats unless you are using hot mud that will dry in an hour. A great idea is to use pink mud that dries white, indicating it is ready for another coat. Don't forget to apply a swipe coat over each screw. You shouldn't notice any edges after screening the mud over a joint line or screw dimple. Make sure to hold the blade flat against the drywall and pull towards you in smooth but firm strokes.
Practice on an old piece of drywall to refine your technique. Part 6. Use a pole sander with drywall sandpaper to sand the hard-to-reach joints after the final coat has dried. Don't get carried away and sand until you expose the paper. These are easily filled later, but require just a little more patience when taping. No professional drywall installer leaves home without a screw gun. You might also consider getting a drywall foot-lift.
A lift, or a drywall hammer in a pinch, will help you prop up the drywall as you nail it to the studs. Part 2. Remove the old drywall. Unless you are starting fresh and there is no old drywall, you should remove the old drywall instead of trying to patch up the drywall in pieces.
The old drywall will need to be pried from the studs and ceiling joists with a crowbar or other instrument often the hands once you get started , being careful not to connect with any electrical or other wiring under the drywall.
Make a thorough job of clearing up the mess. When it comes time to install the new drywall, little pieces left over from the old walls and ceiling will get in your way and make the job more difficult. This would be a good time to pull out the shop vac and run it along the bottom edge of the walls.
A broom works well too. They can either be removed or hammered into the wood studs. Then run a hammer down each stud to make sure you pulled every screw and nail. Every one you miss will produce an ugly blowout. Part 3. Measure out your sheetrock before hanging. This goes for both ceilings and walls. Measure and cut the sheetrock so each end lands on the center of a stud or joist. Sand every cut with a Surform plane or rasp or the sheets will not fit. NEVER use red chalk to snap lines; it will bleed through the finish paint.
Consider gluing each stud and joist before it receives the drywall. Run a bead of glue down each stud that will be covered by the drywall. Do this immediately before hanging.
You don't need to run glue down each stud, but it's recommended, and common practice among professionals. Hang the toughest part first — the ceiling. The order of hanging the drywall matters. Make them a little bit more than exact height so you can wedge the sheets to hold them solidly in place. Once the drywall is lifted by hand, the deadmen are slid in under the drywall to wedge it against the ceiling joists while you nail or screw it up. Give up any idea you might have of forcing the sheets into place.
They will break or blow out and make a mess. Mark the ceiling joist centers on the top plate to save much cursing. Always start from a corner when hanging. Never start from the center and hang outwards. Start from one corner and move in a straight perpendicular line. Once you have one row finished, move on to the next row.
Mark the stud centers on the ceiling drywall. Make sure to screw or nail the drywall to each stud that it covers. Be sure to install the drywall perpendicular to its framing, whether you're working the ceiling or walls.
Because of how drywall is constructed, its strength dimensional strength bias runs along the length. This means that it is best to hang it perpendicular, not vertically, for a stronger final product.
Cut the drywall using a utility knife and a t-square. You don't need to cut hard to get drywall the shape you want. When cutting, score a line through the face-paper the front side of the drywall. Next, break the drywall by snapping away from the cut. You may need to cut the drywall into a less regular shape, to fit it around an air vent, for example.
Use the same process as you regularly would, taking care to cut off little by little instead of making one big cut. Remember, you can always cut off more later, but you can't put more back on after cutting too much off. Start on the walls once the ceiling is completed. Butt it up to the piece on the ceiling and nail or screw. Again, this will probably take more than one person to do, but if you've got muscle is relatively easy to do alone if no helpers are available.
Remember to start from one top corner and work on only one row before moving on to the next row. Butt the bottom sheets up to the top pieces on the walls that you have just hung.
They should be close to one another, but a little space is okay: You are going to tape and mud the joints later, so you do not have to worry about getting a perfect specimen right away. Continue around the room until complete. Work slowly and steadily, minimizing mistakes and making sure to plan. While hanging sheetrock, remember to: Glue studs before hoisting the sheetrock into place Gun in four or five screws on a stud, hitting each stud that's behind the sheetrock.
To drive screws with the gun running, don't be gentle — punch them in. Cut around windows, doors, fixtures, and other obstacles. If you have an obstacle that you don't know how to work around, consult a contractor. Check all the screws or nails with a drywall knife to make sure none are sticking out. Every one you miss will have to be driven in or removed when you're taping, which will make you very grouchy.
Part 4. Read up on how to tape and mud drywall once it's hung. The seams between the pieces of drywall, including the inside and outside corners need to be covered. This assists in both insulation and achieving an aesthetically pleasing final product. Includes planning, equipment and material acquisition, area preparation and protection, setup and cleanup. Daily rental. Consumables extra. Remove drywall fasteners from framing. Dispose of material in responsible manner. Material cost includes dump fee.
Costs to prepare the worksite for Sheetrock Installation, including costs to protect existing structure s , finishes, materials and components. Labor setup time, mobilization time and minimum hourly charges that are commonly included for small Sheetrock Installation jobs. The cost estimate does NOT include: Costs for removing, relocating, repairing, or modifying existing framing, surfacing, HVAC, electrical, and plumbing systems - or bringing those systems into compliance with current building codes.
Costs for testing and remediation of hazardous materials asbestos, lead, etc. General contractor overhead and markup for organizing and supervising the Sheetrock Installation. Sales tax on materials and supplies.
Permit or inspection fees or portion thereof required by your local building department for your overall project. Zip Code. Item details.
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