Click to expand Make sure and leave the heat shield OFF. It does more harm than good trust me. FOwner Sponsor. I have a set here from Strokers that I am dreading the instal of Joined May 18, Messages 2, Reaction score 0. Last edited: Mar 14, Joined May 18, Messages 2, Reaction score 0 Location harrisburg oregon. I had to take mine all the way out when I did my egr delete, and turbo swap. I couldn't get the egr pipe bolts out. That being said all these guys have told is almost exactly how I did mine.
It's a fairly simple job just time consuming. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Joined May 2, Messages Reaction score 0. Mine were pretty easy. Pull turbo. Remove heat shield. Unbolt up pipes from manifold and pull the whole assembly out. Swap your delete pipe to new pipes and put them back in. Connect up pipes to turbo before you tighten them at the manifolds. But the rusty far right is the bracket and there is one more on the backside of the turbo that hold the turbo and uppipe to the head.
After tightening down the motor mounts and then the dogbone. It can really be discouraging and I have had my own problem parts too. Another helper for these problems can be copper gasket sealer.
The old cat scan. This is how you double check the quality of the gaskets. Then on to the dog bone back in place. On to the rest of the assembly with the O2 sensor going back home and on to the downpipe. Then back to the intercooler to finish everything up.
Install walk-through for both the downpipe and intercooler for installation. Now you can start your vehicle up and double check for any exhaust leaks. If all appears well you can lower the car down and take a short drive to double check that everything is working well. Many forum posts will tell you to recheck the torque after a week or two of driving as the expansion and contraction can loosen up the connections.
Leave it up on your jack stands to double check your connections for leaks. Making sure you are not in closed off room, you need plenty of fresh air to breath when running a car in semi enclosed area. Use fans and all the open doors and windows you can. You have completed the uppipe install!
Now you can enjoying driving with a quicker spool or lack of cat to fall apart and take out your turbo! Gearwrench ratcheting wrenches metric. O2 sensor socket. Grimmspeed Uppipe ,. Grimmspeed uppipe to turbo gasket ,. Grimmspeed uppipe to manifold gasket ,. Grimmspeed manifold to head gaskets. DIY: Uppipe install! Keeping your manifold and turbo in touch! Time Frame Determined by your tools, mods and current exhaust setup this installation will greatly vary your install time. Parts Parts needed.
Tools A few of the tools hat will help you, with links to the tools. Passenger side nut hiding in between the two runners. This may sound backwards considering the direction in which the flue gas is traveling. Some are concerned that the smoke can leak out of the pipe seams - however it will not. The pressure of the draft will be moving too fast for smoke to work through the seam. The greater concern is creosote leakage through the wood stove pipe connection points.
Creosote can often be in liquid form when the stove pipe is cooling and the fire is dying down. Figure 6 - Assemble and torque the driver's side pipe. Don't forget the stainless steel gasket goes between the flange adapter and y-collector. Put the passenger's side on first, then the driver's side with the y-collector attached Figure 8. Don't forget to use the stainless steel gasket here.
Figure 7 - Up-pipes loosely assembled to the exhaust manifold. Note the bolts have not been tightened. You need to leave this loosely assembled for now to line up the y-collector to the turbo later. Figure 8 - The up-pipes in place. Passenger's side flange has not been attached yet. Go ahead and assemble this now with the 10mm bolts and the stainless steel gasket. Apply even pressure when tightening bolts to prevent the o-rings from binding and causing leaks.
Aligning the y-collector with the back of the pedestal takes some patience. This is why the lower manifold flange bolts are not yet tightened to allow you room to wiggle everything in place.
Figure 9 - The y-collector is secured to the exhaust inlet of the turbo. Make sure the tubes line up with the exhaust manifolds as you tighten. Once you get past a certain point, it will line up on its own and seat. Remember to check for any fuel or oil leaks before driving. Grab a beer, you are done! Figure 10 - The engine reassembled.
Congratulations, you are finished! Final thoughts: A lifted truck makes this job more difficult. I cannot stress enough the importance of using penetrating lube, and NOT stripping out the y-collector flange bolts.
If a bolt won't break loose, just stop, spray lube on it, walk away or skip to another step , then come back later and try again.
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